The Fusion Silvertouch Power Mach4 Turbo Customplus Platinum Team 7000 Mega™
Cartridges
Holochip Fabricators
Near Eye Display
Primary Researcher
Unassigned
Traitorous Rebels
On this page I will list resources for creating a merit badge box as well as instructions for completing the merit badge.
The size of the nuts and screws for assembling the chassis are described here, though the exact quantities may be wrong. You must use the square nuts for the base of the optics deck (middle layer). The rest can be hex nuts. You may optionally use square nuts for the base of the monitor. To know which side pieces to use, remember that the optics deck has no holes of any kind on the sides. The monitor's chassis will be built as we go.
First read this section about the power supply. Most importantly, study the table of colors used in the Holomonitor and be familiar with the colors, their associated voltages, and their uses.
To assemble the power supply, begin with the fuse box. Attach wires from the power cable to their respective pins on the fuse box. (White = neutral, black = hot/live, green = ground). Make sure to seal the pins with heat shrink (or hot glue). Put the fuse box in its hole in the chassis side. The fuse box must be inserted from the outside of the chassis, and should be in the lower left corner of its panel. Next, attach the ATX power supply to the wall of the chassis using double sided tape. The box should be as low as possible on the wall. Make sure to orient the box correctly! The plug outlet should be on the bottom, on the side farthest from the fuse box. Then attach the 24V PSU to the ATX box, again, placing it as low as possible. Attach the 9V converter to the ATX box as well. It should look something like this:
Then attach all the wires to the right places. First, connect the green wire leaving the ATX to a ground wire from the ATX. Then, the piece of power cable attaches to the 24V PSU. Again, neutral = white, live = black, and ground = green. Attach the end of the cable with the plug to the same spots. Leave the cable long enough to reach to the ATX port. The cord should not go over the top of the ATX box. Attach 2 green wires to the 24V PSU “V+” outlets, and 2 black wires to the “V-” outlets. Connect a 12V (yellow) wire and a ground wire from the ATX to the 9V converter's input side (red).
*The following will be more useful after you have more of the monitor assembled.
Leave all the remaining wires fairly long at first, as most will attach to other things. Here's a slightly modified chart from the Power Supply page listing how many of each voltage you should need and approximately how long they need to be.
| Voltage Bus | Components | Total Number |
|---|---|---|
| -12V | galvo driver, Scanner Shield (for -5V regulator) | 1 short, 1 medium |
| -5V | internal to Scanner Shield (for galvo signal) | |
| +3.3V | (some lasers) | 1* long |
| +5V | GVA-84 amplifier, Scanner Shield, (some lasers) | 3 medium (connected), 1 medium, 2* long |
| +9V* | PHA-101 amplifier (may also be purple) | 3 medium |
| +12V | HELA-10 amplifier, galvo driver, Scanner Shield, +9V PSU input, cooling fans | 3 medium (connected), 1 medium, 1 short, 2 long |
| +24V* | polygon mirror, VCO V_tune, some small cooling fans | 1 long, 1 short, 1 long |
* depending on the lasers used
Wires going to the same places should be bundled. For example, the wires going to the scanner shield should be twisted and end in the appropriate connector. This should wait until later.
This is a cleaned-up layout of some RF chain boards that should make it easier to assemble them. Below each picture is a link to a PDF if you want to print them out. For the Preamp boards I recommend starting with the capacitors (C3, C4, C5). Since there is only a small amound of solder mask between the 5V trace and the ground plane near these capacitors and it is easy to accidentally create a solder bridge, check for continuity between the 5V trace and ground after soldering each one. Then attach the other SMD pieces but save the amplifier for last. Again, keep checking continuity. It's much easier to fix if you know exactly where you were soldering when the bridge happened. Solder the amplifier and the Molex connector last.
You should be able to find the components you need in the back of the lab. Make sure to check the RF chain and Scanner shield drawers (especially for LEDs).
This section shows the layout for the upconverter board. We can use the layout with DC block or without since the new VGA boards have a DC block already.
Here is a list of what should be in the monitor merit badge box:
